Staying Healthy in Jogja

“Why do I do this to myself?!” I ask in my mind as I lay face down on my bed, the inside of my heel being deeply kneaded by Ibu Kendah, a middle aged woman with a grip that could rival superman’s. At the time I set up the appointment, I thought it would be worth trying reflexology for my back pain. After two hours of not so pleasant stretches of massaging on my feet, legs, arms, hands, back, neck, head and even ears (even that was a little painful!), my back feels better. Even if this relief lasts, I’m not ready to call in for a follow-up appointment. Pak Pri (the father of the family I live with) as well as Dimas (the 7 year old boy of the family) decided to ‘enjoy’ a message as well before Ibu Kendah returned home. Dimas’ message was just a quick one to help with his bed wetting problems.

While we, Ibu Kendah, Ibu Wati, Pak Pri and I were waiting for Ibu Kendah’s husband to pick her up, we talked about different ailments and treatments. Ibu Kendah is currently giving reflexology treatments to a woman for fertility problems. Pak Pri relayed the story of a friend’s wife successful fertility treatment: 6 administrations of bee stings. The doctor carefully took individual bees and stung the woman in specific places on her body. Following each treatment the woman would have a fever for a few days. Last year while at a friend’s house, I noticed a small plastic sandwich bag with one corner inflated and tied off. After looking closely at the debris in it, I saw a few tiny hard-shelled bugs crawling through the dirt. My friend explained they were to be made into a tea to treat her husband’s diabetes. In the bird market I visited a few weeks ago, there were bats and lizards for sell—not to become pets, but rather to be used for medicinal purposes.

A lizard shish kabob moderates high blood pressure. One of my teachers mentioned that her mother’s rash was healed with a tea made from a lizard.
A bat shish kabob generates quick healing of a wound if you were a diabetic. Drinking the blood and eating the heart of an older bat will solve your liver problems.

Fortunately for me, if do become sick there are great hospitals in town. I visited Dimas a few weeks ago at one of the best. He was there for a week with a lung infection, and I believe all of his food was for nourishment rather than treatment. It is a very clean hospital run by a Catholic organization. The crucifixes in each room seemed a little out of place in this Muslim country; the nurses’ uniforms, slim-fitting, white knee-length dresses topped off with those white hats that look like they are made from crisp folded paper, seemed an anachronism. It seems I am constantly walking seamlessly across a swirled cross section of the last 100 years here.